Twelve wines by the glass from small farmers who do not add anything. We chalk the list up at six and rub names out as the bottles finish, so what you see is what is still cold.
Tuesday, 9 September
Phaunus Pet-NatLoureiro
Aphros, Vinho Verde, Lima valley. Amphora, no dosage, cloudy on purpose.
7
Fita Preta Pet-NatAntão Vaz
António Maçanita, Alentejo. Dry, salty, finishes like a green apple.
6.5
Fossil Brancofield blend
Vale da Capucha, Lisboa, Torres Vedras. Limestone and sea wind, twelve minutes from the beach.
6
Gilda BrancoBical, Cercial
Tiago Teles, Bairrada. Waxy and quiet, opens up if you let it warm a little.
6.5
Casal Figueira AntónioVital
Marta Soares, Lisboa, Serra de Montejunto. Old vines on the mountain, bottled unfiltered.
7.5
CurtimentaArinto, Fernão Pires
Humus, Lisboa, Encosta da Quinta. Two weeks on skins, dried apricot, a bit of grip.
7
Pinguço EscondidoAlvarinho, Loureiro
Bojo do Luar, Vinho Verde, Monção. Orange in the glass, bitter marmalade on the finish.
8
Xisto Ilimitado TintoDouro field blend
Luís Seabra, Douro, Cima Corgo. Schist, whole bunches, less oak than you fear.
7
Aparte TintoBaga
Vinhos Aparte, Bairrada. Sour cherry and clay, the one we drink after service.
7.5
Gilda TintoBaga
Tiago Teles, Bairrada. The last bottle went at 21:40 yesterday, more on Thursday.
7
gone, sorryVinhas Velhas TintoJaen, Alfrocheiro
António Madeira, Dão, Serra da Estrela. Ninety-year-old vines on granite, wild strawberry and stone.
9
BastardoTrousseau
Conceito, Douro, Teixeira. Pale as a rosé, drinks like a Jura red, serve it cold.
8
Nat'Cool Drink MeBaga, Touriga
Niepoort, Bairrada. Comes in a litre bottle, which explains a lot about Tuesday nights here.
5.5
Bottles to take home are the glass price times five, corked and wrapped in yesterday's Público.
Every wine here is farmed organically or better, fermented with its own yeasts, and bottled with nothing more than a whisper of sulphur, often none. If it is cloudy, that is the wine, not the glass.
Rita writes the list at 18:00 and rubs off anything that runs out, then updates this page from behind the bar. If you saw it here at ten, it was still open at ten.
Walk in. If it is full, put your name on the board by the door and have a glass on the bench outside; we come and get you. Nobody has ever been asked to leave before they finished a glass.
Vinho Verde, Lima valley
Vasco Croft farms biodynamically on granite above the river Lima and ferments in clay amphorae buried in the cellar floor. The Phaunus pet-nat is the reason half of Graça knows what a pet-nat is.
Lisboa, Torres Vedras
Pedro Marques makes wine forty minutes from our door, on limestone that used to be sea floor. Fossil is our house white and has been since the week we opened.
Bairrada
Tiago rents a few old parcels of Baga and Bical from families who stopped making wine, and pays them in bottles. Gilda is named after his grandmother.
Dão, Serra da Estrela
Started as a Paris engineer with a spreadsheet of abandoned vineyards, now farms them by hand at 600 metres. The Vinhas Velhas red is the most serious thing on the board and still costs nine euros.
Lisboa, Encosta da Quinta
Rodrigo Filipe's Curtimenta was the first skin-contact white we ever poured and the one that got the most questions. It still does.
Douro, Cima Corgo
Ex-Niepoort winemaker with a soft spot for the ugly grapes nobody planted on purpose. Xisto Ilimitado is proof that Douro reds can be light enough to drink outside in August.
Torricado with bacalhau
Pão de Mafra rubbed with garlic, olive oil, flakes of salt cod from the Alfândega market.
7
Queijo da Serra, pumpkin jam
Runny raw-milk sheep's cheese from Seia, with a spoon. Serious wine pairing, honestly.
8
Tuna belly, Santa Catarina
A tin from the Azores, opened at the table, with pickled onions and bread.
9
Presunto de Barrancos
Black-pig ham from the Alentejo border, sliced thin, sixty grams.
11
Elvas olives
Cracked green ones dressed with orange peel and oregano.
3.5
Bread and oil
Mafra sourdough and this year's oil from Trás-os-Montes.
3
Rua da Graça 42
1170-165 Lisboa
Halfway up the hill between Largo da Graça and the Miradouro, the door with the tilted glass painted on it. Tram 28 and bus 734 stop at Graça, a minute's walk. If you are driving, do not.